ISAF Bazaar - Carpet

Carpet experts can tell where a rug is from by the design and workmanship. The best Afghan carpets come from Mazar-e-Sharif and Herat. The Turkmen are outstanding weavers and moved into Afghanistan when the Soviets invaded Turkmenistan in the 1920s. I read a study that said a drought killed the Qaraqul sheep in Afghanistan in the 1970s and thus, the older carpets are better than the new. It takes a woman about nine months to do a three square meter carpet by herself. The study said that she would earn about $80-90 for the carpet.

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ISAF Bazaar - Carpet

BThis is one of the carpets at the ISAF Bazaar. The Bazaars are usually held every Friday, or Jumma. The ISAF Bazaar is four or five times the size of the Camp Eggers' bazaar. We have gone over to ISAF the last several weeks for a European brunch and quick tour of the bazaar stalls. I am learning about oriental rugs. This is a fine example of the vendor's wares.

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ISAF Bazaar - Carpet

There are several carpet sellers on ISAF and Camp Eggers that are open throughout the week. One of the vendors on Eggers just sells Afghan carpets. His name is Mirwais and offers us tea each time we go in his shop. It is a calming respite to be able to drink some tea with friends and learn about carpets.

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Gator Alley - Camp Eggers

This is the main street in Camp Eggers--or Gator Alley. One can envision it as it once was when it was an affluent residential street in Kabul. A house a few blocks away belonged to a former Prime Minister. The trees arching over the street and the cobblestones make for a very European affect.

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Aerostat in the Evening

The speck just to the right of the tree in the middle of this photo is an aerostat tethered to the ground east of Camp Eggers in Kabul. The aerostat provides data on what is going in Kabul. It's reassuring to know that its up there 24/7 providing security for us down here.

I talked to an attorney who is visiting from Camp Salerno down south. He says they have attacks daily. He added that the insurgents had stolen uniforms and breached the perimeter a few weeks ago. Our guys need to be on their toes down there.

I got up early on Saturday to take some fellow attorneys to Kabul International Airport. They were flying to Mazar-e-Sharif to inspect a court house we built that is sinking. Corrupt officials and contractors delivered poor quality materials and engineering.

The drive to the airport is always interesting. This time I noticed the single story mud colored homes that layered up the hillsides. The homes don't look that habitable. When we depart the green zone, a traffic circle is dedicated to Ahmad Shah Massoud. Massoud was with the Northern Alliance and was assassinated by al Queda two days before 9-11. The center of the traffic circle features a portrait of Massoud that I just noticed for the first time on this trip.

Coming back we got stuck in traffic for an extended period for the first time. Afghan National Police (ANP) had a checkpoint and were searching car trunks for IEDs. Life in a war zone.

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Dari Class Graduation

I have been taking a basic Dari class twice a week for the last three weeks. We had a graduation luncheon today. It was the best meal I've had in six weeks. It consisted of spinach, lamb kebabs, a ground meat dumpling, steamed rice, a 12-inch slab of nan bread, persimmons, and tea. We ate sitting on the floor. Normally the meal is eaten using the nan bread to scoop up the food. In a paen to us Americans, the gave us plastic silverware. I think I could have done the hand and bread scooping, but it was good to have utensils.

We were tasked with memorizing three Dari proverbs. The key was to pick short proverbs. My three were: Ham hurma ham sawaab--Dates and rewards; Au az balaa khet ast--The water is dirty from the top; Del ba del raad doraad--There is a way heart to heart. At the end of class last week the instructors all told me layaq shageerd--You are an intelligent student. I guess I'm not doing too bad for an old guy. There was a young French officer who was really good at Dari but he had to go down to Kandahar and a middle-aged Dane was pretty good, but he missed several classes also. Thus, I was probably third best in the class.

They are starting an intermediate class on the 28th. Oh, boy! Bisaryh khub!

Mentor and Advisor class

Spent the day in class for mentors and advisors to Government of Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. A briefing from an Army Reserve Lt Col about Afghan history was extremely informative. He knew his subject well, but unfortunately his deployment is over and he is going home on Friday. Its the story of Afghanistan, those who have learned and can help the best end up going back to the states.

We also had a political briefing from a U.S. State Department representative. The politics of the Ministries, tribal loyalty, and corruption is astounding. Until we get the next generation of leaders with education, progress is going to be slow here.

We had a younger Afghan thank us for being in his country and that things are getting better (in Kabul). The villages are another matter.

Earthquake and Election Day

Friday night and Saturday were eventful. I was really tired, so I fell asleep at about 2230. My roomate and I turned out the lights and went to bed. The next morning at the SJA's office, my fellow attorney said, "Wow, that earthquake last night was really strong. A 6.3 located less than 180 miles from Kabul." I guess many people ran outside in case their buildings fell down. My roomate and I slept through it and didn't feel any tremors. They say the tremors lasted 35-45 seconds.

Then the Deputy SJA came in and said, "Did you hear that rocket explode last night? It woke me up at about 0330." The attorney who felt the earthquake said he thought he heard it and that the Mongolian guards on his roof started a bunch of radio chatter. The rocket hit about a half mile away near the TV and radio tower. Later on Saturday we heard a big boom and the building shook. This was either another aftershock or an explosion associated with the election. All-in-all, an eventful day in the life of Afghanistan.

Saturday was the election and the Taliban tried to intimidate people from voting. Afghanistan is the size of Texas with 27 million people. The Taliban tried a few vain terror attempts, but it is ridiculous for all the citizens to be afraid. I noticed many of the Afghans on base today with purple, ink stained fingers showing that they had voted. I thanked them for voting. Hopefully the rest of country voted too.

Kabul Protests

A few days ago, we had a few attorneys out on a convoy in Kabul. The crowds had been incited about the allegations of Koran burning in the U.S. A few hundred Afghans protested the sacrilege by demonstrating, blocking the roads, and burning a few tires. These protests caused our convoy to delay and then divert to safer roads. They made it back to Camp safely, but a few hours late.

The parliamentary elections are scheduled for tomorrow. The Taliban has threatened to create havoc with attacks. I don't believe they have the numbers or ability to cause much problem, but the try to intimidate the people. We have had reduced services in light of the threats and increased security.

Today was bazaar day (Jumma), Friday. Our Camp Eggers bazaar was cancelled for security reasons. ISAF across the street, held there's. Thus, we went to ISAF for brunch and then the bazaar. The vendors are beginning to recognize me after my third trip to their bazaar. I still don't know much about their wares but am learning. Hand-crafted wool rugs, silk pashminas (scarves), brass, wood carvings, antiques, gems. Maybe by the time I leave I'll be a more informed bazaar shopper.

It rained a few drops during the bazaar trip. The weather is beginning to cool a bit and the days getting shorter. We've only had one good rain in the month I've been in Kabul. Everything is coated with a fine layer of dusty soil particles. A good cleansing rain would be welcome!

I helped sort donated school supplies and clothes Monday evening. The generosity of the American people is impressive and warms my heart. Box after box of pads, pens, pencils, crayons along with new clothes with price tags still on them. What a great and giving nation we have. It's great to be an American.

Our Airmen, soldiers, sailors, and marines are doing a fantastic job over here with security and nation building. The Afghans have a long way to go, but with education and time they will make it. We need to provide them the secure environment, the mentoring, and the time to succeed. The Afghans seem to a fairly industrious people with a genuine big hearted, generosity. The just need 20-30 years of peace and prosperity.

Navy Chief Pinning Ceremony - Camp Eggers

This is the final piping aboard to the Chief's Mess of a newly promoted Navy Chief Petty Officer (E-7) af the flag poles on Camp Eggers, Kabul, Afghanistan. The ceremony with much ritual is the final rite before the new Chiefs assume the increased responsibilities of Chief. The ceremony lasted 50 minutes, but the capping with the Chiefs hat, ringing the bell twice, and piping aboard at the end were most impressive. Although land locked, the U.S. Navy is here in number and stepping up to the plate for joint operations. Welcome aboard matey!

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9/11 Memorial at Camp Eggers

At 0846 this morning, 11 September 2010 a chaplain read the Pope's prayer and unfurled a flag with the names of the 2,980 victims of the World Trade Center attack. Camp Eggers' Airmen, soldiers, sailors, and marines (including coalition nations stood guard at the site in 15 minute intervals throughout the day. It was heart warming to see troops from our sister nations there beside the U.S. forces.

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TJAG in Afghan garb

The Judge Advocate General (TJAG) of the Air Force, Lt General Richard Harding, receiving a memento from an Afghan counterpart.

TJAG & Air Force legal staff in Kabul

U.S. Air Force TJAG, Lt General Richard Harding, made his Art. 6 visit to Afghanistan on 6-7 Sep 10. He, along with the Navy TJAG and Army Deputy TJAG, visited bases in Afghanistan to check on the status of legal offices and legal services in Area of Responsibility (AOR).

We briefed him on all the good things we are doing and the progress we are making in improving the lot of the Afghan people and their government. From the shambles of thirty years of civil war, Russian invasion, and the Taliban, coalition forces are creating the rudimentary offices and processes for a functioning government.

We had a traditional Afghan meal over at ISAF the night before the entourage left country. The beef curry dish was really tasty. The nan bread was delicous too, along with the chicken kebabs. I met three attorneys from the South Dakota National Guard, Task Force Rushmore, at the dinner. It was great to commiserate with fellow South Dakotans.

Camp Eggers at Night

I moved into my permanent connex three nights ago. I just noticed this sign for Camp Eggers that brightens the evening just across the road from the stairway to my floor. I walked around Camp two nights ago at 2300 and it was pleasant without the hustle and bustle. I could hear Afghan music wafting in from loudspeakers on two sides of the Camp. It is Ramadan and I surmise that they celebrating breaking their daily fast. Ramadan ends Thursday, 9 Sep and Eid begins through 11 Sep. Thus, no laundry, no bazaar, et al. because of the holiday. Sep 9th is also a holiday memorializing Afghan national hero Ahmad Shah Massoud who was assassinated just before 9-11 in 2001.

Since I have moved into my room, I have more robust internet capability and I will try to keep the blog updated more frequently. I have walked over to the International Security Assistance Force (ISAF) three times in the past week. Some street kids try to hustle dollars and pens near ISAF. I have bought pens and note pads to hand out, but one of the little buggers took my $9 write anywhere pen out of my sleeve holder. I noticed right away and one of the older kids made him give it back. On the last trip, I gave out hard candy which seemed to be a big hit.

We don't get days off (even holidays), thus the time is blending together. What day is it? I look forward the Friday bazaar to break the routine, but this week we have to do without because of Eid. Whew! Two weeks without an interlude.

Anyway, khuda hafez.

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