28 September 2010

ISAF Bazaar - Carpet

Carpet experts can tell where a rug is from by the design and workmanship. The best Afghan carpets come from Mazar-e-Sharif and Herat. The Turkmen are outstanding weavers and moved into Afghanistan when the Soviets invaded Turkmenistan in the 1920s. I read a study that said a drought killed the Qaraqul sheep in Afghanistan in the 1970s and thus, the older carpets are better than the new. It takes a woman about nine months to do a three square meter carpet by herself. The study said that she would earn about $80-90 for the carpet.


--------------------------
Sent using BlackBerry

ISAF Bazaar - Carpet

BThis is one of the carpets at the ISAF Bazaar. The Bazaars are usually held every Friday, or Jumma. The ISAF Bazaar is four or five times the size of the Camp Eggers' bazaar. We have gone over to ISAF the last several weeks for a European brunch and quick tour of the bazaar stalls. I am learning about oriental rugs. This is a fine example of the vendor's wares.


--------------------------
Sent using BlackBerry

ISAF Bazaar - Carpet

There are several carpet sellers on ISAF and Camp Eggers that are open throughout the week. One of the vendors on Eggers just sells Afghan carpets. His name is Mirwais and offers us tea each time we go in his shop. It is a calming respite to be able to drink some tea with friends and learn about carpets.


--------------------------
Sent using BlackBerry

Gator Alley - Camp Eggers

This is the main street in Camp Eggers--or Gator Alley. One can envision it as it once was when it was an affluent residential street in Kabul. A house a few blocks away belonged to a former Prime Minister. The trees arching over the street and the cobblestones make for a very European affect.


--------------------------
Sent using BlackBerry

26 September 2010

Aerostat in the Evening

The speck just to the right of the tree in the middle of this photo is an aerostat tethered to the ground east of Camp Eggers in Kabul. The aerostat provides data on what is going in Kabul. It's reassuring to know that its up there 24/7 providing security for us down here.

I talked to an attorney who is visiting from Camp Salerno down south. He says they have attacks daily. He added that the insurgents had stolen uniforms and breached the perimeter a few weeks ago. Our guys need to be on their toes down there.

I got up early on Saturday to take some fellow attorneys to Kabul International Airport. They were flying to Mazar-e-Sharif to inspect a court house we built that is sinking. Corrupt officials and contractors delivered poor quality materials and engineering.

The drive to the airport is always interesting. This time I noticed the single story mud colored homes that layered up the hillsides. The homes don't look that habitable. When we depart the green zone, a traffic circle is dedicated to Ahmad Shah Massoud. Massoud was with the Northern Alliance and was assassinated by al Queda two days before 9-11. The center of the traffic circle features a portrait of Massoud that I just noticed for the first time on this trip.

Coming back we got stuck in traffic for an extended period for the first time. Afghan National Police (ANP) had a checkpoint and were searching car trunks for IEDs. Life in a war zone.


--------------------------
Sent using BlackBerry

23 September 2010

Dari Class Graduation

I have been taking a basic Dari class twice a week for the last three weeks. We had a graduation luncheon today. It was the best meal I've had in six weeks. It consisted of spinach, lamb kebabs, a ground meat dumpling, steamed rice, a 12-inch slab of nan bread, persimmons, and tea. We ate sitting on the floor. Normally the meal is eaten using the nan bread to scoop up the food. In a paen to us Americans, the gave us plastic silverware. I think I could have done the hand and bread scooping, but it was good to have utensils.

We were tasked with memorizing three Dari proverbs. The key was to pick short proverbs. My three were: Ham hurma ham sawaab--Dates and rewards; Au az balaa khet ast--The water is dirty from the top; Del ba del raad doraad--There is a way heart to heart. At the end of class last week the instructors all told me layaq shageerd--You are an intelligent student. I guess I'm not doing too bad for an old guy. There was a young French officer who was really good at Dari but he had to go down to Kandahar and a middle-aged Dane was pretty good, but he missed several classes also. Thus, I was probably third best in the class.

They are starting an intermediate class on the 28th. Oh, boy! Bisaryh khub!

20 September 2010

Mentor and Advisor class

Spent the day in class for mentors and advisors to Government of Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. A briefing from an Army Reserve Lt Col about Afghan history was extremely informative. He knew his subject well, but unfortunately his deployment is over and he is going home on Friday. Its the story of Afghanistan, those who have learned and can help the best end up going back to the states.

We also had a political briefing from a U.S. State Department representative. The politics of the Ministries, tribal loyalty, and corruption is astounding. Until we get the next generation of leaders with education, progress is going to be slow here.

We had a younger Afghan thank us for being in his country and that things are getting better (in Kabul). The villages are another matter.